Information gathered from the web: Serial numbers on Yamaha guitars repeat every ten years due to the way they are formed. The first letter indicates the last digit of the year of production.
(Their numbering system began with “H” for 1.) The second letter indicates the month. The first two numbers indicate the day of the month. The last three numbers represent order of production on the day the guitar was made.
Example: hm02316 = the 316th unit made on June 2 of 1961, 1971, 1981, 1991, or 2001. First Letter Years H 1961, 1971, 1981, 1991, 2001 I 1962, 1972, 1982, 1992, 2002 J 1963, 1973, 1983, 1993, 2003 K 1964, 1974, 1984, 1994, 2004 L 1965, 1975, 1985, 1995, 2005 M 1966, 1976, 1986, 1996, 2006 N 1967, 1977, 1987, 1997, 2007 O 1968, 1978, 1988, 1998 P 1969, 1979, 1989, 1999 Q 1960, 1970, 1980, 1990, 2000 Second Letter Month H January I February J March K April L May M June N July O August P September X October Y November Z December A lot of people have written in to say, “Hey! My Yamaha serial number looks nothing like this!” To you folks, we offer the following: Several other serial number configurations used by Yamaha over the years. Blazevideo dvd copy keygen idm. If you still can’t figure it out, please see Yamaha contact info at the bottom of this page. Alternate serial number configurations for Yamaha Classical and Acoustic Guitars Custom Shop, Made in Japan, 1966-1985: 001-1042 in sequence Custom Shop, Made in Japan, 1986-1990: Letter-####, like so: J7012.
The letter at the beginning represents the month, so J would be March (see chart above). The number following the letter is the year, in this case 7 for 1987. The last three numbers indicate unit number. 012=12th unit. Custom Shop, Made in Japan, 1991-1996: Letter-letter-###-letter, like so: HP213J.
Using the charts, we see that H=1991 and P=September. 213=unit number; and that last letter is an internal code. Custom Shop, Made in Japan, 1997-2003: Letter-letter-###, like so: NK333. Using the chart, N=1997 and K=April. The three numbers are again, unit number. Unit number 333 in this case.
Custom Shop, Made in Japan, 2004-: Letter-letter-letter-###-letter, like so: QLY111C. Q=0 and L=5, so 2005. 111 is the unit number; and the final letter is an internal code. Yamaha Music Craft, Made in Japan, 1997-1999: Letter-letter-###-letter, like so: ON521J.
(That first letter is an “oh” not a zero.) The first letter is the year; O=1998. The second letter is the month; N=July. The three numbers are the unit number; this started over each month at 500, so unit number 21. The final letter is an internal code.
Yamaha Music Craft, Made in Japan, 1999: Letter-letter-###, like so: PM222. The first letter is the year; P=1999. Second letter is the month; M=June.
The last three numbers are the unit number. During 1999, they starting the count each month at 200 rather than 500. (See previous entry for Yamaha Music Craft for more on the numbering.) Yamaha Music Craft, Made in Japan, 2001-: Letter-letter-letter-###-letter, like so: QIL123A.
The first two letters are the year; Q=0 and I=2, so 2002. The third letter is the month; L=May. The three numbers are the unit number; 123. The final letter is an internal code. Tenryu/Wada Factory, Made in Japan, 1946-1968: #####.
Just five digit numbers in sequence. No year of manufacture can be determined. Tenryu/Wada Factory, Made in Japan, 1969-1984: ######. Six numbers, like so: 710502.
The first two numbers are the year. In this case 1971.
The second two numbers are the month; here, May. The final two numbers are the unit number. Tenryu/Wada Factory, Made in Japan, 1985-1986: ######. Six numbers like so: 860021. The first two numbers are the year; 1986. The last four numbers are the unit number; 21.
Kaohsiung Factory, Made in Taiwan, 1971-2001: ########. Eight numbers, like so: 10918111. The first number is the year; 1971. The second and third numbers are the month; 09=September. The fourth and fifth numbers are the day; 18th.
The final three numbers are the unit number; 111. Kaohsiung Factory, Made in Taiwan, 2001-: Letter-letter-letter-######. Three letters, six numbers, like so: QIM183112.
The first two letters are the year; Q=0 and I=2, so 2002. The third letter is the month. The first two numbers are the day; 18th. The final four numbers are the unit number; 3112.
YMMI (Yamaha Music Manufacturing Indonesia), Made in Indonesia, 1990-1996: ########. Eight numbers, like so: 20918022. The first number is the year; 1992. The second and third numbers are the month; 09=September. The fourth and fifth numbers are the day; 18th. The last three numbers are the unit number; 22. YMMI, Made in Indonesia, 1997-1999: #########.
Nine numbers, like so: 803180011. The first number is the year; 1998.
The second and third numbers are the month; March (03). The fourth and fifth numbers are the day; 18th. The last four numbers are the unit number; 11.
YMMI, Made in Indonesia, 2000-: ##########. Ten numbers, like so:. The first two numbers are the year; 00=2000. The third and fourth numbers are the month; 02=February. The fifth and sixth numbers are the day; 18th.
The last four numbers are the unit number; 13. YMMI, Made in Indonesia, 2001-: Letter-letter-letter-######, like so: QIM180013. The first two letters are the year; Q=0 and I=2, so 2002. The third letter is the month; June (see chart above.) The first and second numbers (following the 3 letters) are the day; 18th. The final four numbers are the unit number; 13. Alternate serial number configurations for Yamaha Electric, Archtop, and Bass Guitars Made in Japan, 1966-1984.
For SG, SX, and BB series. Year Serial Number Sequence 1966 0398-3951 1967 3952-7433 1968 7434- 1 1970 2 1971 1 1972 8 1973 5 1974 0 1975 4 1976 3 (SG-175, SX-125) 1001-1390 (SG1000) 1001-1126 (SG2000) 1977 065 (SG1000) 010 (SG2000) 070 (BB1200) 020 (BB2000) 1978 010 (SG1000) 060 (SG2000) 065 (BB1200) 080 (BB2000) 1979 045 (SG1000) 088 (SG2000) 000 (BB1200) 020 (BB2000) 1980 (through July) 029 (SG1000) 075 (SG2000) 1980 (through December) 015 1981 018 1982 039 1983 045 1984 (through July) 196 Made in Japan, 1984-1986: Letter-letter-letter-letter-###. Four letters and a number, like so: LJQH013. (See chart at the top of the page.) The first letter is the year; 1985. The second letter is the month; March. The third and fourth letters are the date; QH=01. The three numbers at the end are the unit number.
Made in Japan, 1984-1996: Letter-letter-####. Two letters, four numbers, like so: MI0031. The first number is the year; 1986. The second number is the month; February. The four numbers are the unit number; 31.
Made in Japan, 1986-1989: #-letter-#####. The first number is an internal code. The letter is the month; February (see chart). The next two numbers are the date; 4th. The last three numbers are the unit number; 13.
There is no indication of year in this configuration–just “sometime between ’86 and ’89. Made in Japan, 1995-1999: ######.
Six numbers, like so: 610101. The first number is the year; 1996. The next two numbers are the month; 10=October. The final three numbers are the unit number; 101. Made in Japan, 1994-1997: #-letter-letter-###. Like so: 7FM123.
The first number is the year; 1997. The letter (2nd position) is an internal code. The next letter (3rd position) is the month; in this case M=June (see chart.) The final three numbers are the unit number. Made in Japan, 1997-: #-letter-letter-####, like so: 8FJ0013.
The first number is the year; 1998. The letter (2nd position) is an internal code. The letter (3rd position) is the month; March (see chart.) The final four numbers are the unit number; 13. Made in Japan, 1988: Letter-letter-letter-letter-###, like so: SMQI123. The first letter is an internal code. The second letter is the month; June. The third and fourth letters are the date; QI=02.
So, June 2nd, 1988. The three numbers are the unit number; 123. Made in Japan, 1989-2002: Letter-letter-letter-letter-###, like so: SKJL321. The first letter is an internal code (both I and S were used). The second letter is the month; K=April. The third letter is an internal code for Japan. The fourth letter is the year; L=1995.
The three numbers at the end are the unit number. Made in Japan, 2002-: Letter-letter-letter-###-letter, like so: QJM111E. The first and second letters are the year; QJ=03. The third letter is the month; M=June. The three numbers are the unit number; 111.
The final letter is an internal code (could be E, F, I, or S.) Made in Taiwan, 1984-2002: Letter-letter-#####, like so: PH07123. The first letter is the year; P=1999. The second letter is the month; H=January. The first two numbers (07 in this example) are the day; 7th. The final three numbers are the unit number; 123. Made in Taiwan, 2002-: Letter-letter-letter-######, like so: QJM120013. The first two letters are the year; QJ=03.
The third letter is the month; M=June. The two numbers that follow are the day; 12th. The final four numbers are the unit number; 0013 (13). Made in Korea and Made in China, 2003-: Letter-letter-letter-####-letter, like so: QKJ0011Y.
The first two letters are the year; QK=04 (see chart.) The third letter is the month; J=March. The four numbers that follow are the unit number; (00)11. The last number is an internal code (could be D, R, U, or Y.) Believe it or not, this list does not cover all possible serial numbers.
Hopefully, this will help many of you! Again, if you’re still having trouble, please contact Yamaha directly as we have posted all the info we have. Yamaha Corporation of America 6600 Orangethorpe Ave. Buena Park, CA 90620 (714) 522-9011 Email Inquires: Outside the USA, please visit the link below to find contact information by country.
Click to expand.Roy, you are quite welcome. This stuff is interesting to me, and posting information here helps make this thread an online repository of (hopefully) helpful and reliable information about Hohner guitars. Along that line, I've been thinking about the serial # on yours. Hohner has never been good about making info on their serial #s available. But I'm wondering if the # on yours is like that of my Korean made Ibanez RX170. According to Ibanez collectors, the initial letter indicates the Factory of origin, and the numbers following indicate the Year then Month of production, followed by a Production number. So on my Ibanez, the serial # is C404579.
The 'C' stands for the Cor-Tek (Cort) factory in Seoul, Korea. The '4' tells me that it was made in 1994, which happened to be the first year of its production. Then the '04' indicates the month of April, and '579' means that my specific guitar was the 579th guitar of this model made that month.
You say the serial # of your Hohner TE Custom is C218456. So if the same serial # scheme applies (Factory, Year, Month and Production number), then 'C' could indicate the Cor-Tek (Cort) factory in Seoul, Korea. This is totally plausible, because Cor-Tek has long done more contract production (i.e., contracting with other companies to produce guitars for them) than production of their own Cort brand guitars. Then perhaps '2' = 1992, the first year of production of the Hohner TE Custom.
If the '1' = January, then perhaps that means your guitar was part (# 8,456?) of the very first run of this model. I don't know this to be the case; I'm just guessing here. (If the last four digits of your serial # indicate guitar number 8,456 made in January of 1992.well, that number seems a bit high to me.
So maybe I'm wrong about this. But I guess it's possible, depending on how many factory workers were involved, and how many other guitars were being produced in that factory in the same month.) Anyway, it's kind of fun to speculate. Hi Larry, Really interesting theory on the serial number - makes a lot of sense to me. However, like yourself 8000 plus guitars seems a lot to me unless as you say it was a big production plant with long runs of products.
I have an Aria Pro 2 (Les Paul) which I bought new in the mid 1970's from a store in Liverpool (same store John Lennon bought his first guitar). There is no serial number anywhere on it and I cannot for the life of me find any real info on it. The only identifying give away is a label on the back of the headstock which says 'Made In Japan' It's a wonderful guitar with top class material being used. I took it to a professional Luther to be set up and he was swooning over the quality of the instrument.
Hohner Guitar Models
But back to the Hohner TE - I gigged with it on Tuesday night for the first time and it sounded great, one problem it gave me was going out of tune but I think the guy that sold it to me has put new strings on it and they possibly haven't bedded in, watch this space! Cheers Larry, Roy. Hi Larry, Just an update of my tuning problems, the machine heads on the guitar are generally in poor condition and the E (6th) I'm having major problems with virtually fell apart when I took the string off!! Sent for a new set of machine heads and I'm just waiting for them to be delivered. I contacted Hohner about my TE model and they have been very helpful.
They answered some of my questions and actually sent me a document which seems to cover most Hohner guitars. Here's the web site address to view it. You may well have seen this before but there may be others who will benefit from it.
This is a copy of the reply they sent which also may be of interest to people. Hallo Roy, thank you for your request.The Hohner TE Custom was built from 1988 to1992 for the price of 650.- DM ( about 325€).The neck is a one-piece-maple Neck the wood is is made from the so called canadian rock maple and the body is made from Californian Maple. The guitar has 2 Singlecoils ( GS-11 GS-12), 1 Volume- and one Tone-Poti, a 3-Way switch.There were two models, a black one and a sunburst model.
Best regards Carsten Eckardt Produktmanagement I'll let you know how I go on with my new machine heads once I've fitted them. Caveat Emptor FWIW, anyone eying the HG912 on eBay, I won an auction for that guitar back in December but same Seller never shipped, despite weeks of waiting and promises.
I suspect he didn't like the winning price, as it is now listed at BIN for double what I won it for. I will NOT be participating this time around. Part of the beauty about collecting Hohners is getting a sleeper for a good price. Once people start expecting higher dollars it's just not worth it to me. Qualified crack repair on that could add another significant outlay to the cost of ownership. I'm sure it's a fine guitar after repair (hell, I tried to buy it once) but it comes with a story and I wouldn't consider it a 'deal' for what he's asking. Hi, Roy, sorry for the delayed response.
I'm glad to hear that Hohner was helpful to you about your TE. And about that 'Historical Guitar Models document, yes, I have seen it before and have it saved, but I'm glad you posted a link here for others. On a separate note, I just recently took another pic of my Hohner G-940 acoustic from the 80s vintage Japanese Arbor series, so I thought I'd post it here. BTW, I have it sitting side-by-side in the pic with my Wechter parlor sized Nashville tuned NV-5413E.
Click to expand.Sorry for the delayed response. I meant to reply, but obviously forgot.
Is this (borrowed) pic representative of your recently acquired ST Special S? That 'Historical Guitar Models' document that Roy posted the link for earlier this month has the following info on this model. The Hohner ST Special S was made from 1985-1990. It doesn't say where it was manufactured, but given the '80s dating, I'd say what you were told (Korea) is right. As for the body wood, that document says it's Californian solid maple, with a bolt on one-piece Canadian rock maple neck. It might also interest you to know that according to that same source it sold for 530 DM (Deutsche Marks) in its first year of production, 1985.
Which, given the currency exchange rate at the time (1 DM = 0.406289 US $) was equal to about US $215. In its last year of production (1990) it sold for 550 DM, which, thanks to the the strengthened DM that year (1 DEM=0.66496 US $) was equal to about US $365. No Hohner resonator here Larry. I've seen a few online just never one locally. I own a Galveston dobro/resonator, a Weissenborn & Peavey power slide for some open tuning jammn' On another note, I picked up a used Hohner HJ-4 from guitar center this week. I'm not much of a fan of Korean built guitars, but man is this thing nice.
The price was right so I couldn't pass it up. It has the original pick guard, but I removed and stored it away. I know it's jazz guitar but I was rockin' some 'Nuge' on it. Yowza it's a mad house, a motor city mad house.
Bass Guitar Serial Numbers
Still 'Rockin' in the Free World' RG.
For the construction says it all does. It is a Stratocaster copy Fidler enough in shape and dimensions. The body, I think is in Saddle: it is quite heavy. But for me it plutt good sign.
UTILIZATION The handle is enjoyable trs. Access in acute is like its great on amricaine excellent. Ergonomics are good surprise some weight. Then the sound! And of all RSID in the right use of electronic original trs (Systm ATF) that disrupts the user during THE FIRST grip. All played with the volume of CONTRL.
Unlike conventional MODELS, sounds can be obtained depending on the trs DIFFERENT rglage volume. I play a lot in its saturated. And at the Premire grip, I got t trsdu sound.
With the knob back on its draft silent trs, trs Hendrixien even, but without pedals. APRS, the usual electronic m'tre if particulire, I have a guitar in his Discoveries ample, vintage, powerful and prcis (provided you do not jou background). The clean sounds are good and less subject to the effects of Systm (ATF). SOUNDS This guitar should have done my whole style of music is classic 50/60 rock'n'roll, blues-rock. I play (the countryside on weekends) on a Fender amp transistor 15 w and I get a powerful and wide. Moreover, for example, nothing beats a good dmonstration, I invite you watch this video.
So, ds that we are accustomed to Systm ATF was in the hands of a true vintage Stratocaster at the trs and powerful! Besides, I think the pickups are good and in any case certain size for the ATF Systm. So I change them deprecated. Except, change the entire electronic and thus disassemble the Systm ATF and replace it with an electronic classic. OVERALL OPINION I use it for 3 years. CASH EXPRESS bought in for 100 euros, by the time my guild had lch report quality price is extraordinary for a Stratocaster suprieure MODELS Mexican and some models amricains for that amount! I'm so apprci this guitar, as I had two.
But I did not keep the deuxime because the former Owner 'had changed the pickups for alnico blues. Or totally changed the sound and silent silent trsdcevant same (flat and no saturation n'tait possible)! So, finally a good trs guitar really cheap. An electronic do not touch. Except, perhaps be, if we change intgralement.
Construction is Korean. The rest is a copy of Start, 22 frets, 3 micros simple, unknown brand, possibly designed by hohner themselves. The bridge is similar to a strat US deluxe, but much lower quality. 1 volume, 2 tones. A 5-way switch. Hohner has used this technology scratches stamped ATN (Advanced Tonal Network) which allowed them according to obtain a wide range of tone. The handle is flat as a flounder (not radius), not too fine, profile D, the key looks like rosewood.
Kramer Guitar Serial Numbers
(And I can confirm that no, it's not ebony. I have several guitars with ebony fingerboard, ebony and even not quite clear what grain). Mechanics has not been marked, all hardware is gold in color but fade with time, giving one side a little vintage that I like. The body is in a timber that is unknown to me, veined with a varnish trasparaitre leaving the wood grain. The effect is frankly fun to watch. But the varnish is still very thick. It must stifle a lot of wood and resonance.
After removal of the plates, we can realize that it is not plywood, but solid. Is reassuring! The plaque at the base of the handle (screw, it goes without saying), the back is golden and embossed with the logo of the brand and serial number, it's pro in appearance. The guitar is quite heavy, I'll come back later. UTILIZATION The handle is quite nice, much nicer than a lot of copies of strats, and this despite the complete absence of radius (it would have been better with), fast enough, do not exceed the frets on the edges are polished.
Just a reproach to the varnish on the back of the neck that will not slip enough for my taste but nothing too bothersome. Access to treble is fairly good access to the box on the 22nd Grave E string without too much fight in a sitting position. Not exceptional for a form strata; classic. In terms of ergonomics, we are in the form so the strat forms embrace the body.
Nothing surprising about that. On the other hand, big surprise: the weight! It's incredibly heavy. Yet he has gone from scratch in my hands, and all my guitars, this one is among the heaviest. Not tested again, but I'm sure that after four hours, we a trace of the strap encrusted on the shoulder. For sound, capable of using as the.
Means but not the worst, but that's another story that we will see more. For weight -1, -1 for the absence of radius and -0.5 for the sound can be improved arf, there's no halfway point, well, well it will be -3. EDIT: Some criticisms of design. Hohner has chosen the party not to comply the exact location of the holes for the front and rear plates of strato, forcing the body to have to re-drilling to fit standard plates. Strangely, I also had to cut the new plate which does not pass in the handle.
Attention, with some tie a little high, setting the bridge becomes almost impossible, the race of the screws supporting the springs at the rear looks to me too short. The tie is ideal for me 9-42 The bridge looks to me pretty poor anyway.
SOUNDS It should in my style of music, we'll say yes, I use no big distos so it suits me. I tested it in a Head Hughes & Kettner Tour Reverb, Fender Dual Showman and a cabinet with an H & K. So, let's clean sounds. It's the middle of the skyscraper, you feel that there is a potential is there but the microphones are not always up to par, Intermediate positions are interesting, the micro serious has a color a little greasy, velvety, the medium is a bit flashy and treble, depending on the tones can range from not bad to frankly means. There is the 'bell tone' (Ringing Bell) classic stratum, which is not bad This is not the great panacea. And we feel a lack of definition in the bass.
The attack is not very honest, it does not 'slap' them. And dynamics is not very extensive. The turn of the crunch sounds! Ah well it looks like it is designed for that, it's dirty desire as what I expect from these sounds, and whatever the microphones! Always that slight lack of definition in the bass I deplore. Well, it means, but. It engages the distortion.
Well, scratch that is not made to play metal, it sounds rock, post-rock, hard-blues, hard rock old-school not too bad. It's fun no more. And even weakness in the damn cete serious. The distortion sounds are good but not transcendent. I do not see what brings ATN compared to a configuration classic. Although I think the sound seems hard enough, the sounds are over many copies of strats other brands.
Moreover, the sound is already typed strat although quality is a disadvantage with the original e-mail. Violin making me look good on the body to warrant a new mail, but not sure quil to be the same for the handle. And I must think to change the bridge of doom. The original pickups are really not up to par.
EDIT: A few months later, I get new pickups, the GFS alnico blues. The clean sound is better, less serious 'sounding' less rough.
Mediums are velvety, and treble level in returning. The dynamic is markedly improved. Very large increase in the harmonics. They obtained more easily. But hey, still not sustain and it is still not a panacea.
I have not deleted the ATN system, which apparently is mounted in place of a condenso that should be there and I feel that the damn system ATN night away more than anything else. I try to learn more before making the change. OVERALL OPINION Tested a few years ago, and received today, I needed a itch too expensive for me to type delusions of customization, and I think I is the ideal medium for that. Moreover, the model I had a few scratches and a nice scratch in the varnish that provide visual side rock'n'roll / live I can not afford to have on my other guitars. If I tried other guitars before? While there, yes, and all sorts! Of the stratum to the SG through the Les Paul and other semi-boxes.
But it's more for fun and the ability to fully customize the scratches that I acquired. The tests were not that important. Although the absence of the radius does not interfere, it would have been much better if the handle had one. Given the price for which I got it (160 € fdp included), and even the price at which it was at its output, the report Quait / price is right! Possess a beginner is a nice instrument to learn guitar. Body and handle are not bad.
But against, all the electronics and mechanical to be replaced because very low end. Ok, I put a small 6 for these defects but it is a guitar beginner, do not expect wonders. Albeit a Tubescreamer, the delay and a Fender, I see or put on some pieces.
If I would do this choice, if you read my mind, you will understand yes. Copy Strato for the handle (rosewood) and body (alder flame).
3 single pickups with Hohner Systm ATN sense simulate various sounds (humbucking / jazz semi-caisse/accoustique). Mcaniques oil bath two guide ropes on the head. Vibrato knife. Slecteur 5 positions. UTILIZATION Flat handle and plutt wide.
Trs comfortable. Play an equivalent quality Strato Std. For sounds, the ATN sytme promised much.
Browsing for little. No wonder no electronic! Otherwise, sounds good trs 'phase out', clear and rich in mdium.Pour positions 1/2/3, I see nothing unusual. SOUNDS Type blues-rock, the Pro is its ease in clean or overdrive with a lightweight. Not at all suitable to the consortium and hard.
OVERALL OPINION I have over ten years. She did not move.
She then had to rate in 2500 francs.J 'loves the table and the fawn pickgard nacre. Damn mouth for this copy that is well worth the strata made in Japan and other cons.